Frequently Asked Questions:
Q: What is the bead count on the various beads:
||Approx. 200 beads per gram
|11/0 Delica Hex Cut
||Approx. 200 beads per gram
||Approx. 100 beads per gram
||Approx. 32 beads per gram
|8/0 Delica Hex Cut
||Approx. 32 beads per gram
||Approx. 300 beads per gram
Q: What DB colors have been discontinued and what were they replaced with:
When Using Size 15/0 DBS Delica Beads:
Miyuki recommends using:
English Beading Needle 12 or 13
Size B or O Nymo Thread or any other thin thread
Animated Tutorial on Brick Stitch & Peyote:
Visit Silver Hill Design at: http://www.silverhilldesign.com
Customer's Helpful Hint:
One idea I use when beading - To keep my place on the pattern, I use an thick, black emery board. Doesn't slip too much and is thin enough to stay out of the viewing area. Cheri
Q: Do you have kits? If so where?
A: We no longer carry individual kits for our designs, as many of the trim beads have become difficult to locate. The information in our books stating we carry kits is out of date and unfortunately can not be changed.
We do carry some of the Delicas anda few of the trim beads on our website. The link below will help you find some of the items. If you can't find what you are looking for, just ask and we will check for you.
List of trim beads for purses: http://beadedimages.com/trimglassbone.htm
Q: I have bought the bone feather beads for the Peregrine Falcon pattern and now need to tea dye them. What should I do to do this?
A: It's really very easy. We use a tea bag made up of orange pekoe and pekoe cut black tea with about a half cup of hot water. Drop the bone feathers into the tea and leave until the feathers have reached desired darkness. This can be from one to two hours, as some feathers may darken faster than others. Just just keep checking. Remove feathers as they darken and let dry on a paper towel.
|Glossary of Finishes:
||Aurora Borealis - A finish on beads and crystal that gives a rainbow effect
||Pearl-like finish on opaque beads
||Usually bright pinks & purples. Over-dyed with color, therefore the color is not in the glass and can rub off. Clear nail polish my help prolong color.
||An opaque coating over a bead. Metal colors such as gold, copper, silver. Many of these coatings will eventually rub off. Clear nail polish can help prolong life.
||A finish on opaque beads to give a purple rainbow effect
||Clear bead lined with another color
||Clear coating on beads that give a high gloss.
||(Frosted) Dull frosted appearance
||Acceptionally vibrant shiny bead
||Typically iridescent - usually milky or translucent.
||Solid, not transparent.
||Low luster satiny finsh
||Transparent or semi-transparent bead lined with a silver, gold or copper reflective foil lining.
||Letting light pass through, but not transparent
||Transparent - Light passes through completely
|Glossary of Terms:
||Used to cover & finish off end of work. The eye pin is run through the hole at the top, a loop is made, the jump ring & clasp are attached.
||A bead shaped as though two cones are connected together to form one.
||Faceted bead, usually containing six sides, giving extra sparkle.
||Faceted bead with multi-flat surfaces and sharp edges
|Dble Cup Bead Tip
||Used to conceal knots at the ends of beadwork and to connect to clasp.
||Clasps, jump rings, ear wires, head pins & other parts needed to finish or assemble jewelry.
||High quality molded bead with multi-flat surfaces & softened edges that add extra shine to bead.
||Seed beads are usually sold in hanks. The packages consist of 12 individual strands of the same bead, each strand is about 12" long, all tied together at the top.
||Looks like an over-sized straight pin Used for beaded dangles.
||A faceted bead with six flat sides. This adds extra sparkle.
||Unit of measure. There are 28 grams to 1 ounce.
||A small metal ring that joins things. To open, hold with 2 pair of pliers, one on each side of the opening. Spread opening sideways, not apart. This allows it to be re-closed without leaving a gap.
||Unit of measure equal to 100 grams
||A flattened round bead with a hole.
||Miniature version of a key ring. There is no gap for the thread to slip through. as there is with a jump ring.
||Single bead tied in place 8-10" from end of thread to temporarily hold first beads in place on thread until enough beads are woven to hold everything together. Knot or bead is usually removed when beads are stable.
Suggestion on how to control long section of thread: "I have made two of the spiral straps and guess what I used to wrap the long end of thread I wasn't working with? One of your 10 gram empty flip-top containers. I wrapped the thread around the container, wrapped it a couple of time around the flip-top lid, closed the lid, and walla! worked like a charm." Suggested by C. Martin
Q: Square Stitch ~ Increasing Rows:
A: Increasing in square stitch is very different from any other stitch. With square stitch you ALWAYS have to have a bead to join to. If there is no bead, then that row can not be increased until there is a bead to join to. Illustration #67-a, shown in Amulet Obsession, gives an idea of how to increase on a previous row. Notice with the addition of those 2 beads, the previous row now has beads to join to.
Using the Lady Guenivere Amulet Purse pattern as an example, string the 1st row. Turn and start the 2nd row by adding the bead in the pattern that is to the left of the end of the 1st row (the 8 beads above where you started on the 2nd row will be added once the 3rd row is completed enough to have beads for the 2nd row to join to).
Work down to the end of that 2nd row joining each bead side by side. Increasing by 1 on the end is show in #66a, turn. The increase on the end of the 3rd row will be added once you finish the 4th row.
Add the 3rd row by joining to the 2nd row as far as there are beads to join to. At this point all 3 rows will end evenly across the top. Continue with the 3rd row by stringing 8 beads to your thread. This will bring you even to where the 2nd row ends. Turn, add a bead next to the 8th bead, then fill in the beads in between to complete the 2nd row, as shown in #67-a.
Once row 2 is complete, reposition to the end of the 3rd row, add the remaining 11 beads, turn and go down the 4th row increasing by 1, turn and add increase to bottom end of 3rd row, turn add another increase to the end of the 4th row, turn a go up 5th row. The extra increase at the end of the 5th row will be added later.
As you can see, there is a lot of beading at the end of rows that isn't done until the next row over is completed enough to give the previous row something to join to. I know this may all sound confusing at first, but once the concept is understood, it will all make sense.
A: The two loom designs in Forever In Beads need to be worked on looms approximately 8" wide with at least 130 coils to accomodate the width.
We do not endorse any of the looms shown, as we have not used them. About.com/Beadwork is a great source of information for all types of beading and supplies, including loom.
Types of Looms
If you can not find a loom wide enough, try working the design on a narrower loom. Do it in two separate sections, then lace together. Since there will be two warp threads in the center seam instead of one, there may be a slightly larger gap between the rows. One way to close this gap is to use a thinner, size "0" or "B" thread, for the two outer warp threads of each section that will be laced together.
Q: Removing From Loom:
Here is how I removed bead work to be framed from the loom. Loosen the tension on the finished piece without removing to allow the warp threads to relax. I know with many looms this is not possible, so don't worry if you can't do this.
Cut two sections of 1/4" two times the width of the design plus 2". Glue each section of ribbon about 1/4" away from the last row of beads on each end. This allows the beads room for movement should the warp threads retract when the tension is loosened. Glue half the ribbon on one side of the warp threads and half on the other side, overlap the ends and glue. Let the glue dry overnight. Cut the warp threads about 1" on either side of the ribbon to remove from the loom.
When framing, I found double back tape works well to hold the beadwork in place to the back of the matting. Although it will not stick to the beads, it does stick to the ribbon and the matting. If your beadwork is not a perfect standard matte size, like 8 x 10, you may have to have one specially cut.
An up-to-date page showing corrections to errors found in Forever In Beads.
Click h ere
Q: What are Dbl. Cup Bead Tips GP for?
A: Double Cup Bead Tips (GP stands for Gold Filled) are used to conceal knots or a finishing bead at the ends of beadwork and to connect to the clasp.
The Double Cup Bead Tip has a thread hole in the hinge where the thread from beadwork comes through. Go through this hole, add a size 11 seed bead (of any color because it will not see be seen), back into the beadwork, repeat for strength. Go back into the beadwork, tie off and work the end thread in.
Squeeze the metal cups around the seed bead or knot using needle nose pliers. Add jump ring and clasp to the hook part of the bead tip. Close the hook with round nose pliers. Do the same with the other end.
A knot large enough not to slip through the hole in the hinge can be used in place of a seed bead, in which place you would not have to go back into the beadwork to tie off.
Q: Approximately how many beads are in the 5/o, 8/o and size 10/o size Triangle bead packets?
8 grams of size 5/o Triangle Beads = approximately 90 beads (Largest Size)
8 grams of size 8/o Triangle Beads = approximately 250 beads (Medium Size)
8 grams of size 10/o Triangle Beads = approximately 500 beads (Smallest Size)
Q: How many Delica beads make up a single gram, and how many Delica beads per per square inch?
A: There are approximately 175 to 200 beads in one gram of delica's, depending on the color of the bead. Nineteen rows of delicas are equal to one inch. Fifteen beads side by side are equal one inch; therefore, one square inch would be approximately 285 or approximately 1 1/2 grams
Correction to Santa Pattern in Amulet Obsession:
There is an error in the Santa pattern between the back of Santa and the front of Santa where the purse folds. By accident I added one too many rows across the bottom (going horizontally -- between the front and back halves).
What you need to do is cross out a row of DB 25 beads along the bottom back. The "Base Row" will still have 109 beads, as it says on the page -- this is correct, but the rows (every other longer row on the back) will have one less bead.
On the Base Row you will have eight DB 25 beads between the bottom of his gown in front and the bottom of his gown in back. On the next row going from right to left, you will have seven beads between the bottoms of the gown instead of the eight as shown. The rest of the pattern will fall into place as long as the first row is correct and you cross out that one extra row. Pay attention to the bottom of his gown as you bead to make sure you have it exactly like shown -- this will help insure you do not add too many beads between the front and back.
Q: A problem with reading patterns in Amulet Obsession:
A: The pattern diagrams in Amulet Obsession are confusing. Using Crashing Surf as an example, the base row (6th row down) is 33 beads wide in the front and 29 in the back. The next row shows only 32 in the diagram. How do I add an extra bead to this row so it is the same as the first row?
Each row of the purse should have a total of 62 beads. So, using the Crashing Surf as an example, here is a suggestion which seems to help: Along the right edge of the diagram on page 25, take a pencil and draw in a circle (bead) at the end of each short row. Consider the color of all these beads as DB 54 (the color of the beads in the back of the purse).
Each row now has a total 33 in the front and 29 in the back.
Q: What to do if I can't find a good beading program for PC's
A: Take a look at a bead software program such as BeadTool which if use now. I did not use a bead program in my first 4 gooks. I made up my own graph paper...below is how I did it:
Just use a simple work processing program that allows you to draw circles and also has a good selection of colors.
Draw one circle, duplicate that one....now you have two. Put them side by side and duplicate them. Now put those beside the first two making four and duplicate them. Repeat this until you have the amount you want for the first line of your graph. Now duplicate that row and place it either directly under the first row for loom or square stitch, or stagger it over 1/2 a bead for brick or peyote stitch. Duplicate those two rows over and over again until you have the desired length. Before you know it you have graph paper. Save this as a template.
Each time you use the graph, "save as" the name of the new design. That way you will always have your original template. Use the colors that came with the program to fill in the circles for your designs.
Q: Brick to Peyote Conversion:
A: The two stitches look exactly the same when completed. One of the advantage to brick stitch over peyote is the patterns are much easier to follow, although brick stitch is a bit slower.
Most of my patterns are done in tubular horizontal brick stitch. To do these in peyote you would have to do them in flat peyote following the pattern from left to right, working vertically (top to bottom) across the front, around to the back, then join with the peyote stitch. Stitch bottom closed. It's really as simple as that!
The beads in vertical brick stitch patterns run the same direction as peyote stitch purse patterns. These you would also do flat, but you would follow the pattern from top to bottom beading horizontally from the top of the front to the top of the back, then sew up the sides.
For the sculptured top edges you would have to consult instructions in a peyote book, as I cannot help you out there. Some of the patterns in Amulet Obsession are done in square stitch. These cannot be converted into peyote -- but they would be perfect for a loom. Delicas work best for loom work.
Q: Increasing & decreasing on Square Stitch:
A: Increasing & decreasing on both ends using square stitch is different than most stitches. I should have shown the increasing by only one bead instead of two, as shown in the instructions in Amulet Obsession. I think that confuses everyone!
OK, on Lady Guin string the first row, then add the second, which is the same length. When you start on the 3rd row (which will be increased on both ends) you are not able to increase on the bottom at this point because there is no bead to connect to. So, bead up the 3rd row and increase it on the top as shown (figure 66-a). Turn and bead down the 4th row. This is when you will increase the previous row by adding just 2 beads (instead of the 3 shown in the illustration - the illustration is if you wish to increase the row by 2 beads). Connect the 2 side by side (forming the increase of rows 3 & 4), go down into the pattern one row and back out row 4. This helps to secure the increase.
The increase on the one end is easy (figure 66-a), the increase on the other end is done later when there is a place to attach the increase. It's like you are increasing behind you! All square stitch must have a bead to attach to, so all the beading has to be has done in twos.
A: On purses I use a thicker thread (size D Nymo) for strength. It would be the same for peyote stitch. I weave the end of the thread into the piece instead of tying off. Just zigzag through the beads - go through 3 to 4 beads one direction, turn and go through 3 to 4 beads the other direction. Do this 2 or 3 times, then cut the thread close to the beads with nail clippers or small sewing scissors. Do this for an ending or starting a thread. Make sure you pull the little loop of thread into place between the beads when you change directions, don't want any thread to show.
A: Start your piece following the front design from left to right, then continue all around the back and connect the two ends.
Once the two ends are connected, continue following the pattern to the top from left to right. Around and around, always going the same direction. All you are doing is stepping up to the next row and continuing in the same direction as the previous row.
When you attach your needle to the other end of the thread to work down the design, you will most likely be working the pattern from right to left -- this will stay the same all the way to the bottom. If you can manage to complete an entire row before running out of thread, the next section of thread you attach can be connected anywhere you like. I find it best to connect somewhere in the back, therefore I don't have to worry about where I am at in the design every time I move to the next row, as the beads are all the same.
The best way to know where you are at is to pay attention to which bead in the design your thread is coming out of before you start the next row. This helps you to get your bearings.
Remember, adding the two beads is only done to hide the thread, it does not add an extra bead to the row. All the rows have exactly the same amount of beads. Your starting place on each row will change, moving slightly backwards in the pattern with each row.
I know it is so hard to try to explain things without being there to see what you are doing. I hope this helps a little and just doesn't confuse you more. Please don't hesitate to ask, I will try my best to answer.
Merlin Pattern Corrections, Q: & A:
Correction: On page 63, top left hand corner where it says: "Start at *Base Row (beginning under the loop, starting with AQ 704) -- it should say -- starting with DB 325. Loop and Mother of Pearl are added later.
Correction: On page 63, the Merlin pattern itself. With Merlin facing foward and starting from the right edge of his hat brim, count over (going left) to the 5th and 6th rows. This would be in the area just above the hat brim and the curly part of his eyebrow. Each one of these rows (5th & 6th) should have one extra DB 325 added above so that when the purse is sewed together the front of the purse will match up with the back.
Q: On page 64 at the top, what do the letters E, D, C, B, A, refer to?
A: The letters E, D, C, B, A, refer to A being the first row and of the beard and E being the last. Start at the bottom and work up.
Q: What do the numbers in parentheses refer to?
A: The numbers in parentheses refer to how many beads to string to start the fringe. Refer back to page 10 for further instructions on how to create the stick fringe. Row A has an error, it should read:
(15) (20) (30) (40) (50) (50) (40) (30) (20) (15)
Q: On page 64, row E --- I don't see any pointed arrows showing where to attach the fringe. Where do I attach the fringe?
A: You would start at row A where you see the example of fringe. Then work from left to right on that row, right to left on row B and so forth.
Q: In row E, what does the - (15) (15) - indicate? What do the wiggly line mean?
A: The - (15) (15) - indicate the mustache fringe. There are instructions for "Creating Mustache" on the same page, lower left-hand corner.
A: The wiggly lines show where the thread placement for each stick fringe, just like the V's showed ... it shows where the thread comes out and where it goes back in, as it staggers down to the next row over. Each one of those wiggles shows the placement for that particular stick fringe.
Q: Page 64 in the top diagram, what are the squiggles, dotted lines and down pointed arrows for?
A: The down pointed arrows show where to place each stick fringe. The dotted lines show the path of the thread as do the squiggles. Start at the bottom row on the left. Working to the right, add a fringe at each down pointed arrow using the number of beads shown in ( ). Work to the right edge of the purse. The dark line is the thread path outside the beads. Follow dotted and solid lines up to row B -- work from right to left. Repeat the procedure up to row E where the mustache is.
Q: Where is the pattern for the beard, the directions for which beads and how many beads to attach?
A: The pattern for the beard is the one asked about above. The instructions were supposed to be the illustration. Guess it wasn't as clear as I thought.
Q: As for Merlin's mustache --
A: Row E starts from left and tapers down the face to where the mustache starts with - (15) (15) -- this indicate the two (15) bead long stick fringe that make up the mustache. The "X" in the center is where the thread comes out to form the mustache.
The reason the mustache is attached differently than the rest of the stick fringe is because they need to be pulled away from Merlin's mouth. To do this follow the instructions marked with an *.
Connect a new section of thread to the purse for the fringe. Do not weave it in to where you can't get it out. That way, if you destroy the thread by over practice, it can be removed and you can try something else. But I know you will get it just fine!
There really isn't any secret to making twist fringe. Mainly just holding the thread at the end of the twists all the time until they are pulled into place.
So... After you have all the beads strung in place for the first fringe, lay the purse on the table, hold the strand of beads you wish to twist straight out above the purse and start twisting the thread (right at the end of all those beads).
Twist the thread between your thumb and forefinger twisting left to right (for right handers).
After each twist, temporarily hold the thread with the other hand so you can reposition your twisting fingers. Hold tight right at the end of those beads so you don't loose those twists, then re-grab with your twisting fingers to twist again. Keep repeating this until you have all the twists you wish.
Occasionally you will need to run you fingers down the other section of thread where the needle is attached. This will help keep that end of thread from tangling. To see if you have enough twists, hold the two halves of that fringe next to each other, the two strands should twist together. Now, make sure you do not let go of those twists until you have that fringe pulled into place.
pulled in place, run your needle go down the bead to the left of that completed fringe and repeat. Some beaders tie a small knot between twists to help hold them in. I have never done this and have never had any problem with the twists falling out.